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Still better than Nickelback.
Back story. A friend of mine worked for best buy installing car stereos. This was a dynamaye display that was normally connected to a player on loop. When you pressed the button you would just hear bass tunes. Since there was a light socket near by, we felt the need to test the sub.
When I was a kid I once wired myself up to a wall socket.
That’s what 60Hz sounds like.
BTW, when you hear that buzz produced by high powered electrical lines, you aren’t actually hearing the electricity, you are hearing the sound generated by the wires and stuff vibrating at the same frequency as the AC voltage (which in the the US is 60hz).
20 years ago I bought some decent subs but wanted to upgrade pretty quickly. They took my old subs plugged it into the wall so they would get replaced by the manufacturer and give me store credit for the upgrade.
I think an outlet is around 1800 watts which is way more than this little guy is rated for, but he’s taking it like a champ.
Having designed 4kW car audio amplifiers. This is not totally absurd.
120Vrms 8ohm = 1.8kW (This is about as far as you could go without popping a normal breaker, 15A)
120Vrms 4ohm = 3.6kW (30A)
120Vrms 2ohm = 7.2kW (60A)
120Vrms 1ohm = 14.4kW (120A)
We used to do this at work. Some high end woofer can last 1 to 2 minutes before giving up the magic smoke.
Another really fun trick is to cut the surround and spider of a large speaker. Cut the tinsel leads near the normal termination and butt connect them directly to speaker wire. Connect the speaker wire to a 120v ac outlet with a switch. Flip the switch quickly off -> on -> off and watch a speaker launch into the air and possibly catch fire.
I think I hear a ground loop. Get that checked. /s